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Saturday, November 7, 2009

Saturday, November 7

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Fashion Schmashion

Three Books, Three Parties

By Kim Hastreiter

Posted Oct. 29, 2009, 11:44 a.m. ET

Tonight is book launch night: Three parties for three books by/about people I love.

So here's my schedule.

1) Stop in to toast my amazing friend/chef Marcus Samuelsson's newest beautiful tome called The New American Table. Marcus (born in Ethiopia and raised in Sweden, but now a proud citizen of the USA!) has traveled across America to pay tribute to our country's various immigrant-influenced American cuisines.

2) Then it's to Bergdorf's to toast my friend Jean Marc Houmard, whose new book INDOCHINE celebrates his amazing restaurant that has created culture for the past 25 years. The book is fabulous and documents the history of downtown New York that seemed to always take refuge in this wonderful restaurant. You may say, "how can a book about a restaurant be interesting?" But this one is, I promise! It's a keeper. If PAPER were a restaurant we'd be Indochine. If Indochine were a magazine it would be PAPER. It's about community folks!

3) Finally, I'll end up at a dinner at Café Select for the new Martin Margiela book. Of course, what can I say. Margiela has inspired me forever. I wear Margiela. I live for Margiela. I can't wait to get the book!


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Don't Miss Tell Them Anything You Want!

By Kim Hastreiter

Posted Oct. 14, 2009, 3:00 p.m. ET

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Our friends Hunter Hill, Perry Moore and Allison Sarofim produced an amazing and wonderful documentary that's airing at 7 p.m. tonight on HBO about Maurice Sendak, and it's directed by Spike Jonze. Don't miss this! It's a must-see before seeing Where the Wild Things Are. Sendak is hilarious, brilliant, emotional, and insightful. This made me fall in love with the guy.

Sarkozy Checks Out Jeremy Scott!

By Kim Hastreiter

Posted Oct. 6, 2009, 8:59 a.m. ET

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I kid you not! Believe it or not, Nicolas Sarkozy decided to unexpectedly stop by for a meet and greet with a (shocked) Jeremy Scott in Paris last week. And it doesnt seem to be because he was in love with the Flintstones either. Jeremy just emailed me this photo and told me that the whole thing came out of the blue sky. It seems Sarkozy just happened to be in the neighborhood, Jeremy's PR people deftly invited him over and Sarkozy actually had the time and came by. I love that no, it wasnt Karl, it wasn't Jean Paul, it wasn't Galliano... but Jeremy! What a yin yang of hairdos. Go team!

Ingo Maurer's New Chandelier-To-Go

By Kim Hastreiter

Posted Oct. 1, 2009, 9:14 a.m. ET

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My old friend, light designer/guru Ingo Maurer is in town, and I hung with him last night, attending a screening of the AMAZING film Precious. We both were dumbfounded at the end and sat staring like zombies. WHAT a film. Mo'Nique has the Oscar in the bag. She is SO incredible.

Meanwhile, Ingo's in town to unveil his most wonderful newest creation called the Cash and Carry Chandelier-To-Go!!! He told me he's had the idea for 40 years and just got around to making it. It's simply fisherman's netting with lovely crystals dangling from it. They come in three sizes. But the fun part is that the light itself is not in the mesh; it's mounted somewhere else completely and aimed to shine at the netting and crystals to illuminate them. BRILLIANT!!! check it out! Plus, Ingo also has packaged it in a "to go" fun kind of container and calls it his cash and carry chandelier! I LOVE THIS MAN.


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What's Wrong With This Picture?

By Kim Hastreiter

Posted Sep. 30, 2009, 12:24 p.m. ET

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How is it possible that the fashion world continues to enable (if not encourage by its silence) its star designers to exclude people of color on the runways and in their ad campaigns? These shows are looked at by zillions of people, and along the way set the example for companies and fashion magazines all over the world. IT IS SHOCKING AND REALLY MAKES ME CRAZY. What's wrong with everybody? Look around. Do you only see white women in the stores shopping? Do you only see white women on the streets looking good?

I could show you tons of other examples, but above you can see the entire casting for the last Jil Sander show as an example of what I'm talking about. Here are photos of EVERY MODEL that walked the runway in the show last week in Milan. Need I say more? Can the talented designer Raf Simmons really not see how hurtful this kind of casting is? Why isn't anyone but Bethann Hardison talking about this????

Jil Sander for Uniqlo Hits Stores Oct. 1!

By Kim Hastreiter

Posted Sep. 30, 2009, 9:01 a.m. ET

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One of my favorite designers, Jil Sander, has designed a line called +J for Uniqlo, and the stuff is going to be amazing. Check out this fierce men's coat as an example. +J, featuring 100 pieces for women and 40 for men, hits stores Oct. 1.

Jeremy Scott's Yabadabadooooooooo-Inspired Show

By Kim Hastreiter

Posted Sep. 22, 2009, 10:05 a.m. ET

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It's the Flintstones! Meet the Flintstones! Here are some fun snaps of Jeremy Scott's fun show in London that The Cobrasnake sent me this morning. I love this show!!! Jeremy always makes me smile. SO FUN! Catch more pics here.

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PAPER TV: Threeasfour's Collab Show With Yoko Ono

By Kim Hastreiter

Posted Sep. 18, 2009, 11:43 a.m. ET

Threeasfour's collab show with Yoko Ono at Milk last night was such a perfect ending to Fashion Week. In addition to providing the soundtrack to the show, sitting in the front row, and inspiring the dramatic presentation, Ono's rarely-seen dot drawings were transformed onto fabric prints. A smart performance, lovely clothes and Yoko. Need we say more?

CLICK HERE FOR PAPERMAG'S COMPLETE DOWN-LOW FASHION WEEK SPRING 2010 COVERAGE. >>

Some of My Favorite Things... Alexander Wang

By Kim Hastreiter

Posted Sep. 17, 2009, 5:24 p.m. ET

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Looking over the past week, I must say that one of my favorite shows so far has been Alexander Wang whose collection was really modern, really fresh and really strong -- especially for someone so young. Yup folks, he's talented. Here are some of my favorite looks... (you can see the rest at style.com)

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CLICK HERE FOR PAPERMAG'S COMPLETE DOWN-LOW FASHION WEEK SPRING 2010 COVERAGE. >>

Threeasfour + Yoko Ono = ?

By Kim Hastreiter

Posted Sep. 15, 2009, 3:44 p.m. ET

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Threeasfour created their new collection in collab with one of their fave artists, Yoko Ono, and were inspired by Ono's dot drawings (which I can't wait to see tomorrow night at MILK). They've also collaborated on a limited edition of these cool posters which will be on display at their show and sold at Aaron Bonderoffs and Al Moran's O.H.W.O.W. in Miami.

CLICK HERE FOR PAPERMAG'S COMPLETE DOWN-LOW FASHION WEEK SPRING 2010 COVERAGE. >>

Tim Walker's "The Lady Who Fell to Earth"

By Julia Frakes

Posted Sep. 15, 2009, 2:08 p.m. ET

Tim Walker's peerless whimsy, epic theatrics and lavish locales are gloriously at hand in Vogue U.K.'s October 2009 "The Lady Who Fell to Earth" -- his otherworldly exploration of an intergalactic-trotter sightseeing throughout his beloved British countryside. This latterly-published editorial stars a freshly chopped and bleached Kinga Rajzak (who has since returned to a darker hue for the New York Summer 2010 shows) and fits the bill as an exquisite exemplification of Walker's fairy tale technique: staggering sets and momentous venues collocating with everyday absurdities and fabulous preposterousness. Astutely styled by Kate Phelan, the fanciful yarn is replete with 3-D glasses, flying saucers surging over equestrian jumps, and exploratory horseplay (smack of the Rod Serling sort) in prim prints and ladylike tweeds cleverly capped off by Louis Vuitton bunny ears, Alexander McQueen umbrella hats, and Karl Lagerfeld for Les Ateliers Ruby collaboration helmets. A welcome escape to help get over the mid-fashion week hurdle!

Gerlan Jeans Was "An Expectedly Wacky Affair"

By Julia Frakes

Posted Sep. 14, 2009, 12:59 p.m. ET

Following a stellar Fall 2009 debut hosted by Patricia Field in her personal home on the Bowery, Gerlan Jeans' sophomore presentation at the Audi Forum was a booming culmination of designer Gerlan Marcel's unconventional flair: an expectedly wacky affair chockablock with her idiosyncratic prints (past ventures of the Central Saint Martin's '00 graduate include designing kooky, colorful prints for Jeremy Scott, Calvin Klein, Barbie, and Libertine) and off-the-wall insanity. For Spring 2010, Gerlan steered toward a definite '90s SoCal vibe (think Amber's PVC/plastic dresses from Clueless), accentuated by daytime cotton streetwear recalling a distinct Clinton-era optimism and, perhaps, naiveté. Pot-leaf prints galore (played up by wicked hologram laboratory glasses seemingly ideal for Ernst Stavro Blofeld or even Dr. Julius No) and clear sky-high 'private dancer' heels may have been the most memorable motifs that I've witnessed thus far this Fashion Week. But the truly sellable high points include youthful Liberty-esque cotton floral prints perfectly fit for a romp in the sandbox, a dynamically spirited Doc Marten's collaboration, and a "yes we can" fist pump pattern befitting our current healthcare state-of-affairs.

Photos from Getty Images

Costello Tagliapietra Get Dressy

By Julia Frakes

Posted Sep. 12, 2009, 10:44 a.m. ET

Fashion's favorite flanneled design duo Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra returned to their roots this Spring 2010, presenting a collection entirely composed of their celebrated and sought-after dresses. In pure and paradigmatic Costello form, the heart of the line hinged on regal drapes, structural folds, and exuberant hues. They kept the spirit fresh (with slickly understated Swarovski details), green (by utilizing an Earth-conscious method of printing fabrics without wasting water in collaboration with AirDye), and attainable (the two shoe styles June and Lula created in partnership with Loeffler Randall are available for pre-order). The boys intently focused on the entirety of each frock -– rendering it just as compelling to study the models' garments as they approached as from behind -– and marking a delicate balance both in silhouette and frills, played up by prints forged by manipulating Jeffrey's digital lake and sunset photographs snapped around Brooklyn. Highlights of the well-edited 22 looks unveiled at Milk Studios included a freshly-flaxen Ali Stephens' tricolor moss/acid AirDye taffeta draped one-shoulder dress with satin organza embroidery and Pernille Moeller's periwinkle AirDye lake print taffeta dress crowned by delicate origami jabot.

A donation of the proceeds on all Loeffler Randall/Costello Tagliapietra collaboration shoes pre-ordered before 10/01/09 for late-October delivery will go to Living India, a non-profit organization aimed at educating the people of India about HIV/AIDS via multi-faith and government coalitions: www.loefflerrandall.com.

CLICK HERE FOR PAPERMAG'S COMPLETE DOWN-LOW FASHION WEEK SPRING 2010 COVERAGE. >>

Rachel Comey's Breezy, Coastal Maine-Inspired Collection

By Julia Frakes

Posted Sep. 11, 2009, 1:14 p.m. ET

Rachel Comey's signature offbeat mélange of zany prints, decidedly brainy specs (this season, in collaboration with Sol Moscot), and undemanding footwear fit for the most urbane hippies took center stage as St. Vincent crooned cover songs at the breezy Chelsea rooftop runway presentation (Nika's hat even went a'flying!). Comey's comely quirk was brought to the fore this season by remarkably Johnny Appleseed styling: a foray of flat-front pants, floppy hats, kooky rover pockets, trademark quotidian cardigans, and thoroughly Camden cargoes. Inspired by seaside Maine, Comey seemed to take cues from the entire coast with winsome (albeit rather utilitarian) skorts befitting a romp around the Sebago Lakes, delightful refined dresses recalling the more genteel Kennebunkport coterie, and functional trenches, windbreakers and field coats wholly fit for Freeport.


images via Julia Frakes and Coutorture

CLICK HERE FOR PAPERMAG'S COMPLETE DOWN-LOW FASHION WEEK SPRING 2010 COVERAGE. >>

A Quick Chit-Chat with Designer Abigail Lorick

By Julia Frakes

Posted Sep. 8, 2009, 11:37 a.m. ET

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Abigail Lorick's warmhearted southern charm is sparklingly evident in both her genuine congeniality and her ladylike line Lorick's decorous designs and hospitable presentations. Mid-preparations for her Spring/Summer 2010 collection to be presented early on September 10th –- consider it "Fashion's Morning Out" –- at The Yard at the SoHo Grand, Abigail kindly sat down for a short and sweet tête-à-tête on her transition from modeling to designing, upcoming "dress-up"-inspired presentation, and what events she is eagerly awaiting this New York Fashion Week.

What originally prompted you to move from Amelia Island, Florida to Europe at 18 years old?
I had decided to model full-time and Milan was the first step to success.

How did modeling for Ford sway your mastery of design while studying at FIT and soon thereafter designing for T.S. Dixin?
My bookers encouraged me to go to FIT and having funds from modeling helped with school. By the time I was at T.S. Dixin, I was no longer modeling.

How has your upcoming Spring 2010 collection evolved from your stellar Fall 2009 line?
It is a lot more playful and easy... harkening back to the love of playing dress-up.

READ MORE »

David Hockney's New iPhone Drawings

By Kim Hastreiter

Posted Sep. 4, 2009, 12:54 p.m. ET

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Aren't these amazing? Our friend Marc Schiller (of The Wooster Collective) just posted these paintings that artist David Hockney created with his iPhone ....

Tauba Auerbach's Auerglass

By Kim Hastreiter

Posted Sep. 4, 2009, 12:02 p.m. ET

Yesterday afternoon, I snuck into my friend Tauba Auerbach's amazing show, which opened last night at Deitch Projects on Wooster Street. It's really a great show. Tauba built this flawless organ-type instrument that she played for me with her friend Cameron Mesirow of the band Glasser. Check it out.

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Le Sportsac's PAPER Magazine Bag!

By Kim Hastreiter

Posted Aug. 28, 2009, 11:06 a.m. ET

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check it out. Le Sportsac created a bag in honor of PAPER's 25th anniversary! It'll go on sale in a few weeks!!! Isn't it cute? It has a Day-Glo lining of course...

Designer Katie Gallagher to Present Her First Full Collection

By Julia Frakes

Posted Aug. 25, 2009, 2:29 p.m. ET

Fashion circles are abuzz in anticipation of New York-based designer Katie Gallagher's dramatically sculptural garments and endearing yet contemplative motifs (think inflated cats, Neuromancer, Veronica's Veil) to be presented at her first full ready-to-wear collection on September 12. The dainty, dreamy RISD alum further refined her skills at apprenticeships with threeASFOUR and Anna Sui -– garnering industry whispers of her unrivaled technical prowess and diligent emphasis on the wearer's personality. It was a pleasure to chit-chat with the fellow history buff and rural Pennsylvania native on her pixie-like upbringing, distinctive design journey, and upcoming Spring/Summer 2010 presentation.

Can you tell us a bit about your environs while growing up?
I grew up in a farm town in Pennsylvania. I was surrounded by forests and I played with wild animals all the time; in fact, my mom thought I was a saint because I would perpetually approach and touch random animals and they never ran away from me! I was a forest creature, really –- I never wore shoes, and I hated wearing clothes (but always wore my cat on my head)! Growing up consisted of picking mushrooms and berries, making little potions... and avoiding clothes. I'm not really sure how I ended up being a fashion designer in New York, but here I am!

READ MORE »

Tavi Meets the Rodarte Sisters

By Kim Hastreiter

Posted Aug. 19, 2009, 11:29 a.m. ET

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Yesterday, I headed to a press preview to check out Rodarte's new fab collection for Target. Afterwards, I snuck to the back to see Kate Mulleavy being interviewed by her new BFF, Tavi, the 13-year-old fashion enthusiast, aka the world's youngest style blogger. She was CUTE. She met the Rodarte girls in L.A. a while ago and came out to see them unveil their upcoming line for Target to the press. (It hits stores this December) The clothes were SO fun of course but I'm trying to be a good editor and not spill the beans before the embargo is lifted. Sorry folks, but its verboten. So instead, I'll show you the snap I took of Kate and Tavi....


Jeremy Laing Discusses Fall 2009 Campaign

By Julia Frakes

Posted Aug. 10, 2009, 4:59 p.m. ET

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When I last caught up with acclaimed Canadian designer Jeremy Laing in February he was utterly abuzz in pre-fashion week preparations -– endearingly admitting to conquering crunch time by virtue of "green juice, B-12, his kitty, cuddles, and power-naps." Of course Jeremy's self-taught organic and geometric approach to construction also served as an asset while creating his Autumn/Winter 2009 collection: one chiefly influenced by "building, forging... and elements of welding, industrial materials, steel workers, public works projects, safety design, as well as a drive around a Nascar race track and a visit to the Hendricks Motorsports Compound on a recent trip to North Carolina." Less than a week after his presentation, Jeremy tapped one of my best-loved lensmen Chadwick Tyler to shoot the doe-eyed Heather Marks at F Space Gallery on February 19. So moved by the purity of the images (officially released last week), I felt compelled to check in with Jeremy to get the lowdown on his visionary Fall 2009 campaign.

How did you choose Chadwick to photograph your Fall collection?
I met Chadwick through a friend who took me to an exhibition of his photographs last season. I liked his work and his approach so we decided to collaborate on the campaign.

What key ideas were you were trying to bring to light through the photographs and how did your collections' inspiration translate into the campaign?
We were going for a feeling of calm, almost meditative isolation: so negative space was really important, as was an even low-level light. The collection was inspired by a trip to a Nascar compound -– which is a high-octane and volatile environment –- so I wanted to contrast this by slowing the images down.

How did casting (fellow Canadian) Heather Marks fit into your vision?
Heather's a super cool fun-loving girl, but she has a real stoic and otherwordly beauty that I find captivating. That makes for an interesting balance.


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